Pressure Washing

Power Washing 101 The Principles by 3dViewingAngle.com Power washing also acknowledged as pressure washing is an essential house upkeep support you will want to take into account on a regular and ongoing foundation to hold properties, driveways and parking lots safe and sound and beautiful. Pressure washing is the greatest time saving device for residence proprietors for taking away dust, mildew, dirt or bird residual. We also advocate electrical power washing a residence if you are obtaining all set to paint. Electricity washing will eliminate the chalky residue from outdated oil or latex paint and assist the new coat of paint to adhere correctly. Electrical power washing can be employed on several surfaces like: wooden, granite, asphalt, concrete, bricks or aluminum. We do not suggest energy washing hardboards simply because they are vulnerable and can turn out to be damaged. What are the 4 crucial components of energy washing? There are 4 elements to the power washing process: strain, drinking water movement charge, cleaning answer and warmth. If 1 of these components changes, the total cleaning attributes change. For instance, if you select to use a cold drinking water instead of making use of very hot water, you will have to include a lot more chemicals, use larger stress and / or use much more water to accomplish related final results. What is the function of detergents? Detergents emulsify the dust much better and quicker as the drinking water temperature increases. This is particularly true when cleaning oil or grease from a concrete surface area. How does power washing function? The procedure breaks the bond between dust and the surface area currently being cleaned. The much more drinking water that is delivered for each moment, signifies that more rapidly cleansing can arise. This is particularly critical when removing components like mud or road tar. Be aware: Versions in work dimension, conditions and operator skill could affect the finish outcome. What are some terms to be informed of? Gallons Per Minute GPM. The far more gallons per minute employed, result in a reduced cleansing time. Be positive to ask your likely contractor what is the GPM price they will use on your project. Lbs per Square Inch PSI is a...

Published: Saturday, September 03, 2011, 7:30 AM By Shannon Quimby, Special to The Oregonian Editor’s note: Your house is your biggest asset. So if it’s starting to look a little shabby and painting it has moved to your must-do list, don’t be daunted by the prospect. We have information that can help you decide what colors to use as well as what you need to know if you want to paint it yourself. It’s a big project, though, and it comes with a couple of important caveats, so be sure to look at our two previous posts on staying safe on a ladder and what you must know about the danger of lead-based paint. If your house is looking a little too shabby chic these days and needs repainting, you may want to save a few bucks and tackle the project yourself. But before you hit decision-making overload at the paint store and your head starts spinning with doubt, anxiety and endless questions, read these no-nonsense painting tips. In no time you’ll create a dramatic change. It’s one of your least-expensive ways to increase the value of your home. BEFORE YOU BEGIN Plan when to paint. In the Pacific Northwest, the painting season for house exteriors is late spring to early fall. Head to your favorite paint store to stock up on materials and tools. Don’t be shy to ask the experts what you’ll need: They do this all day long. Clear the surrounding area of furniture, flowerpots, hoses, garbage cans, cars and large debris. Look up and check under the eaves for beehives and bird or wasp nests. Remove with care. Make sure nothing is up against or hanging from the house. Remove any shutters and take measures to protect any landscaping that you care about. PREPARATION Check the condition of the current paint job. If the house has paint problems, educate yourself so you don’t go awry the second time. The section on paint troubleshooting will help diagnose the problem. In this order, scrape, sand, dust, wash and prime. When using a power washer you might be tempted to put bleach in it. Do not do this. It will turn an angry color and spray in unintended...

By ANGIE HICKS Dear Angie: I’ve found deck staining, especially a cedar deck, is a real issue with stains not lasting more than one year at a time on horizontal surfaces in almost full sun. When I looked into what to use at the “big-box” hardware stores and paint stores, they all seem to think they have the right answer. But, after 8 years of trying to deal with this, I am almost ready to give up. What do you recommend? Is there a certain type of stain, not necessarily a brand, that I should look for? What causes it to wear off so quickly? Could I be doing something wrong when I apply it? And how long should good stain last? John G., Indianapolis Dear John: Whether they’re oil-based or water-based, stains will not last long on horizontal surfaces, due to weather elements like sunlight, snow, ice and rain. Wear is most commonly caused by the sun’s ultraviolet rays deteriorating the stain surface. So, if your deck sits in nearly full sun, the horizontal surface is going to fade more quickly than one in constant shade or a surface that is vertical. Most pros recommend you restain a horizontal surface every two-to-three years. That said, properly preparing, cleaning and drying the surface before applying a stain will yield the best results for the stain to last at least that long. You want to make sure there are no traces of sealant present on the deck. A high-volume pressure washer is best to clean and prepare the surface. However, a pressure washer can easily scar the deck surface, so unless you’re experienced working with one, that job is best left to a power washing professional. As far as the type of stain to use, a semi-transparent stain will sink deeper into the wood. Solid color stains are more like paint and will likely peel within a year. If you use a solid color stain and it starts to peel, there are really only two ways to fix it: strip it and reseal it, or keep touching it up. For a more natural stained look, a good, heavy oil-based stain has the most longevity on a horizontal surface compared to...

As Weather Changes, Homes Need Care Posted Today 02:01 pm) Each season homes go through changes in temperatures, weather conditions and aging. In order to keep all the components of a home running smoothly and to avoid costly repairs later, it’s helpful to conduct seasonal maintenance actions each season. As the summer continues, this is a perfect time to prepare for fall. Depending on the climate, the fall season may be too late to prepare if it gets cold quickly. Regardless of location, start these helpful tips now to save money and get a jump on the season. * Examine the roof, gutters and downspouts for debris — The roof is often forgotten about because it is not at eye level to give a subtle reminder about maintenance. Clear leaves, dirt and pine needles from gutters and examine downspouts for damage or loose pieces — check the flashing around the chimney and any openings in the roof, such as skylights for leaking problems. * Examine property grounds — Before the grass is covered with snow, or it is too cold to venture outside, check walkways for cracks and loose paver material. Fix walkway and entryway areas before slippery weather can cause a tripping or falling accident. * Change the home filters — Those who have a central air conditioning system should change the air filter regularly. Those who have a window air conditioning unit should remove it from the window or place a waterproof cover over it to prevent damage. Change filters in stove vents, clothes dryers and room fans if applicable. Clean air filters will keep a family healthier in the fall months. * Repair leaky faucets — Before the temperatures start to dip low, examine leaky faucets in the kitchen, bathrooms and utility room locations. * Prepare the fireplace — Some people use the fireplace more than a central heater in the fall and winter months. Discard old ashes and ensure the damper is open to allow air to freely move through the chimney. If the air becomes cold, close back the damper after cleaning. Check the damper handle and springs to ensure the flue is operating correctly. Hire a professional chimney sweep if needed. * Drain...

Sticky deck problem raises more questions Bill Burnett,Kevin Burnett Wednesday, August 31, 2011 Recently we published a response to a reader who had a problem with a sticky deck. It seems her handyman didn’t read the instructions on the sealer can and got carried away. In this case, more was not better. The sealer pooled and dried to a sticky film. We told our reader to give the spots a good scrubbing with acetone (lacquer thinner), rinse and finish with a light sanding. As often happens, a question begets more questions and different answers. Here’s what this column generated: Q: You mention redwood in your article. Our deck is cedar, which splinters a lot. I have had it power washed in previous years, but I think that might have made it worse. How would you treat a cedar deck? A: The same as a redwood deck. Power washing with no sealer makes for dried-out wood and splinters. Power-wash the deck, let it dry and apply a sealer. As we’ve said many times before, we’ve had good luck with Duckback and Preserva Wood products. ( www.preservaproducts.com and www.superdeck.com). Q: I saw your article and have a question: My deck is made from pressure-treated wood. In the past when I have applied deck stain, it looks great for a few months, then starts to wear off. By the next summer it looks as if it never penetrated the wood. Is that because the wood is pressure treated? Will the Preserva Wood or Duckback product do a better job than the product I have been using? A: If the product you have been using is deck stain, the answer is yes. Stain will not penetrate pressure-treated wood. Pressure-treated wood is infused with a chemical preservative under pressure to prevent fungus and insect damage. If you cut a piece of PT lumber and look at the cut end, you’ll see 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch of penetration of the preservative. This prohibits water and stain from penetrating. If you continue to stain, count on a yearly project. An old salt offered this suggestion: “An old boat trick for too much sealer (tung oil or urethane) applied to teak decks: Apply 90 percent rubbing...

Your Place: A Homeowner’s Advice on Caring for a Deck August 19, 2011|By Alan J. Heavens, Inquirer Real Estate Writer Reader Alden Smith of Wayne offers some words of wisdom on deck care and maintenance: “My cedar-plank deck is 19 years old and is in very good condition. Each year, I apply Olympic semi-transparent, oil-based product. I use a sponge-mop applicator with a roller pan to apply. This is an easy and quick method. “I have had to replace a few boards … from time to time. … I only replace the bad section by using a sabre saw to cut it out. Then I attach a new cleat to the deck frame and drop it in place. “I use a Cabot stain to color the new section to duplicate the existing color and then apply the Olympic. “The deck is on a sloping hill with a lot of ventilation. This is why it has lasted so well.” His daughter had a deck built by the same contractor using cedar. Since her deck is only a few feet off the ground, it has rotted badly. It has been coated every few years. Now her 17-year-old deck will be replanked using Trex, the composite wood product. “I would advise a deck built close to ground level be constructed of Trex or similar material,” Smith said. “More expensive, but it will last a long time.” Painting weathered wood. Our expert, Debbie Zimmer of the Paint Quality Institute, is back this week with tips on painting weathered wood. When painting a home with a wood exterior, it’s not unusual to find areas that are weathered. Sometimes, this is because it has been years since the last paint job. But even new construction – a recent addition – can be weathered after only a few weeks if unpainted wood is left exposed. “If the wood exterior you’re about to paint meets one of these descriptions, you’ll need to do some extra surface preparation,” Zimmer said. “That’s the only way to end up with a quality, long-lasting paint job.” Assuming the wood was painted previously, start surface preparation by scraping away loose or peeling paint. Dry rot (dry, crumbly sections of wood) and wet...