Posts Tagged "philadelphia window cleaning"

How to Pressure Wash your Windows

There are two ways to wash the windows on your house. The first is doing it yourself. The second is hiring a window washing contractor. If you choose the first way and do not own a pressure washing unit you can rent one for about $75 a day at your local hardware store. Keep in mind you may have to purchase chemicals separately. If you choose the second way make sure your contractor has either contractor insurance or pressure washing insurance. A powerwashing company will use a machine that is similar to the machine in the below picture. Our trailer contains a hot/cold pressure washing machine as well as a 500 gallon water tank for those of you that do not have access to water. The most important aspect and what makes our pressure washer different from those that are generally rented at a hardware store is the water temperature. Most commercial grade pressure washing machines have the ability to heat water up to 250 degrees to remove those tough stains that may require heat to dissolve like oil spills. From here, it is a three step process. You spray on whichever chemical you choose (depends on the material you are pressure washing), scrub down any necessary areas, and spray clean. There is really not much too it. You just need to learn which chemical to use on which product. A shingled roof may need chlorine, an asphalt driveway may stronger bleach, while certain types of vinyl siding may need hot water only. If you choose to go the second way and like the before and after photos pictured above please contact us at 215-703-8306 to setup a free estimate. We offer pressure washing, powerwashing, window cleaning and graffiti removal in the Greater Philadelphia area. To learn how to pressure wash more materials visit our...

Read More

As Weather Changes, Homes Need Care

As Weather Changes, Homes Need Care Posted Today 02:01 pm) Each season homes go through changes in temperatures, weather conditions and aging. In order to keep all the components of a home running smoothly and to avoid costly repairs later, it’s helpful to conduct seasonal maintenance actions each season. As the summer continues, this is a perfect time to prepare for fall. Depending on the climate, the fall season may be too late to prepare if it gets cold quickly. Regardless of location, start these helpful tips now to save money and get a jump on the season. * Examine the roof, gutters and downspouts for debris — The roof is often forgotten about because it is not at eye level to give a subtle reminder about maintenance. Clear leaves, dirt and pine needles from gutters and examine downspouts for damage or loose pieces — check the flashing around the chimney and any openings in the roof, such as skylights for leaking problems. * Examine property grounds — Before the grass is covered with snow, or it is too cold to venture outside, check walkways for cracks and loose paver material. Fix walkway and entryway areas before slippery weather can cause a tripping or falling accident. * Change the home filters — Those who have a central air conditioning system should change the air filter regularly. Those who have a window air conditioning unit should remove it from the window or place a waterproof cover over it to prevent damage. Change filters in stove vents, clothes dryers and room fans if applicable. Clean air filters will keep a family healthier in the fall months. * Repair leaky faucets — Before the temperatures start to dip low, examine leaky faucets in the kitchen, bathrooms and utility room locations. * Prepare the fireplace — Some people use the fireplace more than a central heater in the fall and winter months. Discard old ashes and ensure the damper is open to allow air to freely move through the chimney. If the air becomes cold, close back the damper after cleaning. Check the damper handle and springs to ensure the flue is operating correctly. Hire a professional chimney sweep if needed. * Drain...

Read More

Sticky Deck Problem Raises More Questions

Sticky deck problem raises more questions Bill Burnett,Kevin Burnett Wednesday, August 31, 2011 Recently we published a response to a reader who had a problem with a sticky deck. It seems her handyman didn’t read the instructions on the sealer can and got carried away. In this case, more was not better. The sealer pooled and dried to a sticky film. We told our reader to give the spots a good scrubbing with acetone (lacquer thinner), rinse and finish with a light sanding. As often happens, a question begets more questions and different answers. Here’s what this column generated: Q: You mention redwood in your article. Our deck is cedar, which splinters a lot. I have had it power washed in previous years, but I think that might have made it worse. How would you treat a cedar deck? A: The same as a redwood deck. Power washing with no sealer makes for dried-out wood and splinters. Power-wash the deck, let it dry and apply a sealer. As we’ve said many times before, we’ve had good luck with Duckback and Preserva Wood products. ( www.preservaproducts.com and www.superdeck.com). Q: I saw your article and have a question: My deck is made from pressure-treated wood. In the past when I have applied deck stain, it looks great for a few months, then starts to wear off. By the next summer it looks as if it never penetrated the wood. Is that because the wood is pressure treated? Will the Preserva Wood or Duckback product do a better job than the product I have been using? A: If the product you have been using is deck stain, the answer is yes. Stain will not penetrate pressure-treated wood. Pressure-treated wood is infused with a chemical preservative under pressure to prevent fungus and insect damage. If you cut a piece of PT lumber and look at the cut end, you’ll see 1/16 inch to 1/8 inch of penetration of the preservative. This prohibits water and stain from penetrating. If you continue to stain, count on a yearly project. An old salt offered this suggestion: “An old boat trick for too much sealer (tung oil or urethane) applied to teak decks: Apply 90 percent rubbing...

Read More

Pressure Wash before Painting Exterior of Home

Prepare before Painting Exterior of Home Glenn Haege: The Handyman You have often heard me say that preparation is 60 percent of a painting job, and that is especially true when you paint the exterior of your home. While indoor painting preparation is more geared toward taping and putting drop cloths over furniture, exterior painting is more about preparing the surface. For most homeowners, painting their home’s exterior means painting either wood, brick, or siding made of vinyl or aluminum. Unfortunately, when it comes to preparation for exterior painting, one method does not fit all. Regardless of what type exterior your house has, the first thing to do before painting is to clean the surface and remove any mold and mildew. While using a power washer to clean brick or stucco can work well if done properly, I don’t recommend it if you are cleaning any type of siding or wood because it is too easy to damage these surfaces if you use too much pressure. Fortunately, there are many good products on the market that make it easier to clean your home’s exterior with a little elbow grease and a garden house, including Krud Kutter House Wash and Krud Kutter Exterior Siding Cleaner, www.krudkutter.com. Also look for JOMAX House Wash and JOMAX House Cleaner and Mildew Killer by Rust-oleum, www.rustoleum.com. If you are painting vinyl or aluminum siding, and it is in good shape, cleaning it is usually all the preparation you need before using a good 100 percent acrylic latex paint. If you have wood siding with peeling, blistering or cracking paint, scrape and sand the problem areas first, then clean it. You might also want to consider a primer product called Peel-Bond from XIM Products, (440) 871-4737, www.peelbond.com. It’s a fast-drying, penetrating filling primer that actually fills in cracks and rough surfaces on wood, T-111 siding, plywood or hardboard to help decrease the amount of scrapping and sanding needed before painting. If you have an older house where numerous coats of paint have built up over the years, you might have to strip the entire surface. Several non-toxic paint strippers are on the market, such as CitriStrip, from W.M. Barr & Co., www.citristrip.com. Also consider RemovALL...

Read More